Hiking between high rock faces in the morning and jumping into the sea a few hours later: In Starigrad Paklenica on the Croatian Adriatic coast, these two vacation experiences are unusually close to one another. The coastal town is located at the foot of the southern Velebit Mountains, while the entrance to the national park is only a few kilometers from the town center.
From the sea, the bright mountain slopes appear almost barren. However, behind the first rock faces, the landscape changes rapidly. Streams, forests, deep gorges, and narrow mountain paths characterize the landscape between the rock walls. It is precisely this contrast that makes Starigrad an interesting starting point for anyone wishing to combine a beach holiday with active days.
You do not have to commit to long summit tours. Around the town, you will find short panoramic paths as well as extensive hikes, challenging climbing routes, and trails that lead deep into the Paklenica National Park.
Dalmatia’s Wild Side Begins Behind Starigrad
The national park encompasses the Velika Paklenica and Mala Paklenica gorges, which have carved deep into the southern slopes of the Velebit. Vertical limestone walls, forested valley sections, and rushing watercourses define the scenery. On the higher routes, the landscape becomes more open and alpine.
Around 150 to 200 kilometers of signposted trails crisscross the national park. Some remain in the gorges and lead to nearby destinations, while others reach far up into the Velebit Mountains. For a first visit, the Velika Paklenica gorge is usually the best choice. Several well-known routes begin there, and even within the first few kilometers, the rock faces tower impressively over the path.
Today, the visitor center “Paklenica’s Underground City” is located in former underground military tunnels. The exhibition focuses on the nature, geology, and history of the park, providing a welcome change from hours spent on the hiking trails.
Four Paths, Four Different Sides of Paklenica
Through the Velika Paklenica Gorge
The hike through Velika Paklenica is one of the most accessible ways to get to know the national park. The path follows the stream between steep rock walls and later leads through forested sections. Even the initial stretches demonstrate how impressive the gorge is.
The Lugarnica forest cottage is a good intermediate destination. Those wishing to continue can hike to the Paklenica mountain hut, located approximately six kilometers from the main parking lot. Plan sufficient time for the return journey as well, as weather, temperatures, and your own physical condition can make an initially simple route more demanding than expected.
Ascent to the Manita peć Cave
The path to the Manita peć cave branches off from the main route through Velika Paklenica. The ascent takes about an hour and a half from the parking lot and leads up to an altitude of around 570 meters.
Inside, large chambers with stalactites, columns, and other limestone formations await you. The cave can only be entered as part of a guided tour and is not open continuously. Current opening hours and further information can be found on the official website of the Paklenica National Park. The additional ticket for the tour is purchased directly at the cave and can only be paid for in cash. Therefore, plan your ascent so that you arrive at the cave entrance at least half an hour before closing time.
The Short Path to the Paklarić Viewpoint
Not every hike in Paklenica has to last several hours. The starting point for the Paklarić educational trail is the restored mill near the entrance to the Velika Paklenica gorge. Over a distance of about 550 meters, it leads up to the remains of the Paklarić fortress and a viewpoint.
From the top, the view extends over the coast, Starigrad, and the Velebit Channel. Information boards along the way tell stories of traditional stone houses, agriculture, livestock farming, and old trade routes. This makes the path a good choice for a shorter visit or as a supplement to a day in the park.
Through the Mala Paklenica Gorge
Mala Paklenica is significantly more pristine. The narrow and less developed path requires sure-footedness, experience, and careful planning. In some places, the route goes over scree, rocks, and through the stream bed.
After heavy rainfall, the passage may be impassable. It is therefore not a suitable alternative to Velika Paklenica for families with small children or inexperienced hikers. However, those with experience in rugged terrain will experience a particularly quiet part of the national park here. Please note that climbing in Mala Paklenica is not permitted in order to protect nature and endangered bird species.
Where Climbers Choose Vertical Paths
Paklenica is one of Croatia’s most famous climbing areas. In the Velika Paklenica gorge, there are about 600 marked tours of various difficulty levels to choose from. In addition to shorter sport climbing routes, experienced climbers will find long multi-pitch tours on massive limestone walls.
The most famous rock is Anića kuk. Some routes there reach a length of up to 350 meters. However, no one should enter the wall without appropriate equipment and experience. In the national park, climbing is only permitted in the designated area of Velika Paklenica; helmets and full safety equipment are mandatory, and solo climbs are prohibited.
There are also opportunities for active vacation days away from the rocks. In the wider surrounding area, you can go cycling, go rafting or canoeing on the Zrmanja, and go kayaking on the coast. This allows for a varied stay without having to choose the same activity every day.
A Coastal Town for the Hours After the Tour
After a day in the mountains, the path leads back to the sea. Starigrad has several pebble beaches where you can cool off. Well-known swimming spots include Jaz and Kulina near the Večka kula ruins, which stand directly on the coast.
A look at the history of the town is also worthwhile away from the beach. In the Marasovići district, there is an ethno-house with a small collection on traditional life in the Velebit. Around Starigrad, you will also find old churches, dry-stone walls, and the so-called Mirila—stone memorial sites along former paths through the mountains.
Film fans may recognize the surroundings from the Winnetou film adaptations. Several films were made in the mountain landscape around Starigrad and Paklenica. A permanent exhibition commemorates the filming and shows which locations served as backdrops.
Important Information Before You Set Off
Spring and autumn usually offer pleasant temperatures for hiking and climbing. In midsummer, you should start early, as open sections heat up quickly. Weather, wind, and the length of the return journey should be part of the planning for every tour.
Sturdy shoes, sun and rain protection, and sufficient drinking water are therefore essential. Before your visit, also check the current entrance fees and information regarding individual trails on the official website of the national park.
Bicycles are not permitted on the hiking trails of the national park; only a short section of road between the Velika Paklenica entrance and the parking lot is open to them. For families and less experienced hikers, the Paklarić trail and the lower sections of the Velika Paklenica gorge are usually the more sensible choice. Dogs are allowed in Paklenica National Park but must remain on a leash. However, they are not permitted inside the Manita peć cave.
Vacation Between the Coast and the Mountains
In Starigrad Paklenica the beach and the mountain world are so close together that you can combine both quite easily. In the morning, you can go on a discovery tour through the national park, and in the afternoon, the Adriatic awaits for a refreshing break.
Come to Northern Dalmatia and experience for yourself how versatile a vacation between the coast and the Velebit can be. At Dalmatien Haus, you will find vacation homes, villas, and apartments that offer you a suitable starting point for hikes, beach days, and excursions in the surrounding area.
